Bolting in Greece
This trip excels all our journeys so far as it provided us with several surprises:
Shortly after our arrival, we get the flu, which makes us stay in bed for the first sunny days. Luckily, we recover soon and we walk off to find a crag to bolt. Leonidio has a variety of good rocks. Therefore, it doesn't take us much time to find an amazing crag. Highly motivated we start to bolt the first routes.
Suddenly, the fun ends, because a cold front passes and covers us with snow and ice. What should we do now? We don't give up, we shovel away the snow from the path, we scratch the ice from the rock and go on. Bolting, belaying, testing and cleaning the routes in the icy coldness is on the list for the next two weeks. However, in the end it is worth the effort, as we can be proud of some bolted routes.
Unfortunately, the coldness has prevented us from climbing in this new crag. That is the reason why we want to spend the last two sunny days in the Twin Caves for climbing. Already at my last visit there, one remarkable tufa inspired me. The first bolts are already bolted, because an existing line passes below the sinter to the right. Bernie likes this route as well and starts to bolt this tufa as a variation to the existing route. I don't want to leave the country without this line. So a tough battle follows. The climbing is hard and painful, because of the difficult moves on this rough tufa. I have to use tactics during my check out and for my attempts. Soon I have my solution, but the route doesn't want to be completed so easily. One time I fail because of a broken foothold, the other time a wet hold stops me. The cold night arrives, my energies decrease and my skin burns like fire. Nevertheless, I continue for a last go. It is like an exciting film with a doubtful ending, as I grasp for each move.
After three weeks without much sun, it is a great feeling to clip the anchor of this new first ascent, 'A pig in the roof', 8b, in the bright sunset. Thanks for this amazing line Bernie!